September 11th...Cretaiole...Lots to do today ...

We plan to have lunch in Montalcino at Trattoria l'Angelo (Have to compare Montalcino pici with last nights dinner). Ahhh...last nights dinner...

Our hostess at Cretaiole, Isabella, has planned a lesson in making pici (pasta) which will become our dinner. I did not take an official count, but I estimate Cretaiole had about fifteen guests for the pici lesson and dinner. We all gathered early in the evening on Wednesday and the lesson began. Isabella used about 4 to 5 kilos of flour ( 9 to 11 pounds) with which she made a dam into which she broke about two dozen eggs. I know that olive oil was involved and certainly water, but I don't have her recipe so I won't even try to recite the process from memory and my illegible notes. (There was also an olive oil tasting that lasted for two to three hours the next day).

After mixing the ingredients, the dough was divided into a number of pizza dough sized rounds and the class took over the kneading. Our hostess carefully demonstrated the kneading process and over saw our progress. I have a few short videos and will attempt to post two or three of the most representative. Suffice it to say that the demonstration by Isabella was much more successful than our attempts to duplicate the process.

Rolling out the pici by hand is surely an art! Isabella created pici six to eight feet long and with the diameter of a pencil as effortlessly as was our applause in response to her skills. The class did quite well and soon there was a "ton" of pici ready to serve with the Ragu that had been cooking in the kitchen since the evening before. Now we might think that cooking a Ragu for perhaps 24 hours is overkill, but however long it was actually cooked was the right amount of time because the Ragu was delicious! Isabella's husband, Carlo, had made a wood fire in a outdoor grille (we might compare it to a barbecue grille) and reduced the fire to red hot coals over which he grilled sausages and some sort of chops. The pici ragu and the chops and sausages were the hearty dinner we all wanted and with a salad, as much bread and wine as we could reasonably consume, dinner was brilliant, to say the least. The simple foods we have enjoyed in Italy are the best. In fact, I cannot recall a fancy dinner that was as good as the pici ragu dinner at Cretaiole!

Back to Thursday morning...We headed out early to visit Santa Anna in Camprena, a Benedictine monastery dating from the fifteenth century.

(an aerial view of Santa Anna in Camprena)

(Scenes from the movie "The English Patient" were filmed here). The drive to the monastery, like every rural drive in Tuscany and much of Italy, was almost as good as the monastery itself! More vineyards and olive groves. The edges of the vineyards of largely Sangiovese grape are planted with rose bushes...red roses...for miles...

The roads wind through hills and valleys, some recently tilled and others growing the grapes and olives that will be harvested in September and October. We pass through a few small towns and villages and and by fields of wilting sunflowers. It seems the drive is over before we have seen enough of this beautiful area (Val d'Orcia) of Tuscany.

We drove for at least 45 minutes and finally found the monastery. Actually, if we had not taken a somewhat (unplanned) circuitous route we would have arrived in 15 or 20 minutes...Santa Anna in Camprena is only about 6 or 7 km from Cretaiole. I goofed off with the picture taking and somewhat intentinally because the guests at the monastery were painting in the courtyard

(the courtyard on the top and the refectory on the bottom)

We wandered around the grounds and throughor a half hour and headed out to Montalcino...and lunch...

Cretaiole, Val d' Orcia, Tuscany

We left Lucca at about noon September 10th. The drive from Lucca to Pienza is an adventure in itself! We leave the freeway, as previously mentioned, and travel the final 60 miles (97 Km) on SR2 which winds through the beautiful Tuscan hills and valleys, past vineyards and olive groves with geraniums and roses planted in carefully aligned rows adjacent to the highway. Our 2 hour leisurely drive twists and turns (often abrubtly) into small towns (citta) and villages (villaggio).

Often the highway narrows to a very tight two lanes passing through a village where the homes and shops are separated from the roadway by only a three foot wide sidewalk, and occassionally, no sidewalk at all. At nearly every significant intersection of this highway with other roads, we encounter the well designed traffic circle. The circle may intersect as many as five or six roads with multiple signage pointing the way to major (and minor) towns. A word of advice...if you decide to travel by car in Italy, pay careful attention to the signs, especially if you are unfamiliar with the locales where you travel. Know, however, even if you do get lost, that in itself, can be a very pleasant adventure. In 2006, we left the paved highway (relying on a GPS) and traveled, nearly in circles, for an hour or so, through some pretty, and some very wild, countryside, on a dirt road, before we stopped and asked directions of a non english speaking gent in a brushy wooded area where hunters were about chasing wild boar.

A few of the citta and villaggio we passed through were Bellevista, Staggia, Castellina Scalo, San Martino, Siena, Isola d' Arbia, Monteroni d' Arbia, Buonconvento, Torrenieri, San Quirico d' Orcia and finally arriving at Cretaiole about 2PM. Cretaiole sits on a high ridge just a few minutes (by car) west of Pienza and the intrepid walker could walk into Pienza in less than an hour. I say "intrepid" because the walk either involves travel along the highway (limited shoulders) or cross country through the farm fields on dirt roads with views of Pienza obscured by the topography. As an aside...we saw quite a few cyclers on the road, apparently traveling through Italy by bicycle! Courageous and demanding physically.

Again, I digress.

The drive was great but could have been much better if we had planned it so we could have stopped at a few of these small villaggio if only to stretch our legs. Well, leaving that for another trip (which is certain to occur soon)...

Tonight, in/at Cretiaole, a dinner prepared by our host and hostess...pici ragu (bolognaise), wood grilled/roasted meats and sausages, local (jug) wine, grappa and lots of bread. Pici is a thick, hand rolled pasta (fat spagetti) which origine is claimed by this area (Province of Siena) of Tuscany.

We wake early in Lucca because Jeannie has something she really wants to do today and we also have to rent a car for the drive to Pienza. It is Thursday morning, September 10...

We head out to rent bicycles so once again we can enjoy the pedestrian/bicycle atmosphere of Lucca. Jeannie wants to ride around the town at least one more time and we will ride to the auto rental to line up our car for this afternoon's drive.

To some who read this blog it may seem that we move around quite a bit and often (in our Italian travels) but Tuscany (one can drive from the extreme points in Tuscany to each in less than three hours) and Italy are quite small compared to say, California, USA. Italy is about the size of Arizona and one can actually drive from Milan to Rome in a few hours and from Rome to Naples in an hour or so. The total distance on the "autostrade" from Milan to Naples is about 500 miles or a eight hour drive here in the states...in Italy that same 500 miles could very well be a six hour (or less) drive! It is not uncommon to find travel on the autostrade moving along at 160 KPH or 90 MPH plus!!! And trains...well even if one travels on the intercity (stay away from the local trains unless they are the only ones to serve your intended destination) the slower of the "express" trains, the travel time by rail with train changes and stops from, say, Venice to Naples is less than 8 hours for a trip of about 450 miles, and will cost as little as $155 (for a second class ticket). The latter may not sound like a bargain, but the tolls on the autostrade are very high and auto rental is not any cheaper than here in the US.

But I digress too much...

Lucca, Thursday AM...we ride our bikes around the town one last time and head outside the gates of the "old" city and into the high traffic streets of the "new" city. The traffic is scary after the protected environment within the walls (with few cars inside) but we arrive at the auto rental unscathed and meet with a very nice Italian family (sister-brother) who own and run the shop and rent a really "cute" little Fiat Panda (I wanted a high powered Lancia sedan but the budget did not provide for such luxury). The proprietor offered to drive the rental car to the gate of the old town and meet us there as we returned our bikes to the bike rental and collected our luggage.

We are excited, as we are off the Cretaiole, an agriturismo we anticipate will be a grand experience. We have read about and heard about these working farms that take in paying guests and are truly looking forward to a new, non hotel/B&B Italy agrarian experience...we are surprised and pleased when we arrive but I will save that story for later in this blog! First the drive from Lucca to Pienza...all of 200 Km or about a 120 mile drive. We, however, plan to take our time and roam through the back roads to Pienza and enjoy the sights along the way. We will bypass Siena (bypassing Florence as well) exiting A11 and Raccordo Autostradale Siena-Firenze at Poggibonsi and traveling the most of the rest of the way on SR2 which will wind through the countryside past and through small villages passing by and through Monteroni d'Arbia, Buonconvento and San Quirico d'Orcia and skirting Montalcino before arriving in Pienza and locate Cretaiole...

At this point of our trip what we know about Pienza and Cretaiole is that Pienza is famous for cheese (little did we know) and Cretaiole was a recommendation of friends who had stayed twice and we trust they match our preferences well. Cretiaole has a very nice website...

http://www.cretaiole.it/index.en.php

My next post will tell the short story of our drive to Cretaiole and our arrival in Val D'Orcia, Tuscany!!!

Let me see, where was I...oh yes...

Day Four...Wednesday, September 9th...

Lucca

We boarded the train from The Cinque Terra to La Spezia early and after changing trains we head to Lucca and a new adventure. We are staying at a B&B (about two ? really long blocks from the train station in Lucca).

They told us it was a short walk to the gate and that the B&B was just inside the gate...San Pietro...we walked for fifteen minutes and then got lost (in a town with a wall around it)...could not find the B&B so we sat down for coffee and a pastry and relaxed...fortifying ourselves to commence the quest...and...I think that was the right thing to do because we found the B&B almost immediately...coffee in Italy is brain food...caffe lunga...

Lucca is two towns, the Etruscan/Medieval/ town surrounded (4 km around the wall) by a Renaissance era wall/earth rampart that is wide enough at the top to accommodate a paved trail about 20 to 30 feet wide for bikes, walkers, joggers and runners without any running into the other.

The first thing we notice is that most everyone in the old city (The new city is just that, new, much 20th century construction and some late 19th century) is riding bicycles...men in suits, women going to market and their work, some dressed in very fashionable outfits. Some tourists...not as many as one might expect, and of course the children. Lucca is a pedestrian and bicycle paradise. After checking in with our non English speaking hostess we look for some place to get a coffee.

After checking in with our non English speaking hostess we look for some place to get another coffee.

Now time for some exercise... we rent bicycles and ride around the town as well as around the wall...4Km...completely encircling the town. The wall is about thirty feet above the town and surrounding area so there are some nice overlooks and views as we ride our bikes twice around.

For some odd reason the pictures from Lucca have decided to hide form us so these are the only two we can find? (A hint, here, transfer your digital photos to disc while traveling...internet cafes with plenty of computers are everywhere in Italy).

Dinner is at the Trattoria Gigi, Piazza del Carmine...relaxed and intimate with outdoor and indoor dining. Great food!!! Some pasta, raosted meats, broccolini and of course, lots of "corposo" Tuscan wine.

We retire early (11:00PM) and look forward to Thursday and packing more Italy into our 14 days...Tuscany, next...but first...

Day three, afternoon and evening...

Not much more to say...a relaxing afternoon on the terrace and then dinner at another fantastic spot in Monterosso...the next time we have to stay in Vernazza! Need to rest this night because tomorrow we are off to Lucca to a new experience...to a place in Italy to which we have not previously been.

Oh...the picture...I cannot recall but I think that it is Manarola?

So...day three...September 8, 2010...

A day in The Cinque Terra...

From Monterosso one can walk (hike) along the coast and visit all five towns in a day. The hike, uninterupted by any long breaks, takes four to five hours. We plan to walk the easy part, Riomaggiore to Manarola, about a nice 30 to 45 minute stroll. We board the local train in Monterosso and in less than fifteen minutes we are de-boarding in Riomaggiore. After purchasing our pass to the park (the walkway/hiking path is part of the national park system) we climb a few steps to the "trail". This part of the trail is paved with a flagstone like rock and is more like a long winding fireplace hearth (picture that?).

The views along the way continue to be spectacular!

About 2/3 of the way to Manarola we stopped at a little pizzeria for a beverage and snack. The bruschette was average to good and very satisfying (along with a nice glass of wine). Photos to the right, the "trail" and an interesting rocky point along the trail...

On to Manarola and after a visit to the swim lagoon and a few minutes for another snack, we board the train and in five minutes are in Vernazza for lunch! (Yes, we eat well and often when in Italy).

The photo to the right, Manarola swimming lagoon...

September 7th, 2009

It was Monday afternoon and we boarded a train to Genoa (from Milan) but just a comment about the train station in Milan...WOW! I think this was a Mussolini project...not certain of that fact but will check it out and report. Anyway, it is quite impressive. If you have ever been to Union Station in Washington DC you would be similarly impressed...for different reasons, of course. (Okay, I checked my facts and the original "Milano Centrale" was built in the 1860's and was replaced by a new station inaugurated in 1931 and under the influence of Mussolini, designed by at least two different renowned architects, one, Ulisse Stacchini, who concentrated on the iron/steel work canopy (Mussolini architect) and the other the building itself...Louis-Jules Bouchot started by Victor Emmanuel III but completed under Mussolini).

We changed trains in Genoa and arrived in Monterosso al Mare, the most northerly of the five towns in The Cinque Terra. We planned to stay with "Manuel" (Manuel's Guest House) and called to let him know that we would be arriving around 7PM. We enjoyed a nice stroll from the train station to the center of the "old town" and stopped to ask a fellow in one of the tiny squares how to find this obscure B&B and that gentleman just happened to be Manuel, in person! He called his nephew, and thanks for that because the nephew carried our two carry-on bags and one of our two small backpacks up the 130 steps to the apartment!

Upon arriving at the top of these steps for the first time we were greeted by a fantastic view (the first photo) and two very cordial couples with whom we enjoyed, perhaps, the coldest and tastiest beer I have ever had...or...maybe it was enhanced by the trek up those steps...but no matter what the reason, the view, the conversation, the beer and the wine that evening were all great!

We had a late dinner at a restaurant we were familiar with from a previous visit and slept well!

OK...so...I am a bit late in posting 'cause the trip took place back in September...but...

Italy 2009!

...here goes...day one...

We arrived in Milan, after more than 15 hours of flying (with a nice layover in Atlanta and lunch there with my sister and brother)and jumped on the train to the center of Milan where we immediately explored the Duomo...very intricate, lots of detail and quite a view from the roof! Yes, one can climb to the roof and have great views of Milan...

Later that day (September 6th) we viewed Leonardo Da Vinci's Last Supper (no photos allowed, although many were snapping pix until someone got caught and yelled at by a very excited docent)...http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Last_Supper_(Leonardo)

Because we snacked all day dinner was not remarkable but we look forward to Monday morning...

Day two...Milan...

We're off to walk the center city area...see the high fashion shops, La Scala and whatever else we can cram into a few hours because at three this afternoon we board a train to Genoa and ultimately, The Cinque Terra!

So...a couple photos of Monday in Milan...

High fashion shops...

...and a shopping mall... oh!... what a shopping mall!

La Scala...wish we could have been there for an opera!

(by the way...lunch at a small tratorria...outside...risotto for Jeannie and penne bolognese for me with a glass of wine)... and then more walking tour...

Our modestly priced hotel in Milan was Arco Romano...convenient, clean, comfortable and pleasant...not luxurious...but a great place to sleep well and cheap!

http://www.hotelarcoromana.it/search.asp?lang=en

The "planned" Itinerary (we tend to change thisgs around once in Italy)

Depart Seattle Saturday, September 5th through Atlanta to Milan, arriving Milan Sunday the 6th at 10 AM. Leonardo's "Last Supper" 15:45 and then ???

On the 7th, by train to The Cinque Terra for a couple of relaxing days and then Lucca on Wednesday the 9th.

Agriturismo in Tuscany (Siena Province) visit for two nights/days, the 10, 11 and 12 of September.

Assisi on Saturday the 12th where we will stay until the morning of the 16th...then on to Sorrento for the balance of Wednesday and all of Thursday with the "quick visit" concluding in Rome, Friday and Saturday...returning to Seattle Sunday the 20th.

It is possible to squeeze in two more cities/locales in two weeks but we travel relaxed and this is aggressive (in terms of the amount of in country travel in a short time) for us.

So...look for a new blog on Monday the 7th or Tuesday the 8th...

Ciao...

Here we go!!!

Well, in about 34 days we will be winging it to Milan and I will continue this Blog as often as feasible from Italia. The plan is to fly to Milan where we will see Leonardo's "Last Supper" on Sunday...and if time permits, visit the Duomo and Duomo Museum. Then Monday we will travel by rail to Cinque Terra for a couple of days with the sun and sandy (small rocks,mostly) beaches...on to Lucca (Puccini's home town) on Wednesday and then to Assisi on Thursday (visiting friends and our Italian "family"). We will bum around Umbria and Tuscany for a few days, squeeze in an overnight in Naples to visit those folks and then two days in Sorrento and the final two days in the Eternal City.

That's the plan...now let's see if we stick to it. Italy is so seductive that if one encounters a new place and falls in love with that place, it is sometimes difficult to leave.

Stay tuned...

Air Fare Winner...Delta...

oh...BTW...we scored air fares slightly over $650 RT per person..."open-jaw"...not 2 bad...

2009 Italy Visit

Check back after the 15th of August for blogs on our 2009 travel to Cinque Terra, Volterra, Lucca, Assisi, Naples, Tortora, and Rome...

Broken Promises

It's been nearly five months since I last blogged...not quite weekly but then, no one reads this blog any way. Or at least if they do, no one comments...

The latest on travel to Italy...living in Italy and what's happening in Italy...

The euro is rising again...air fares are still down at least until the middle of March. I just checked September and found a fare at $886 RT per person...a Hotwire special...

We hope to travel in September and so tickets must be secured no later than July 15th. It seems that the best fares are available about 60 days prior to travel. Other arrangements can wait and many can be made after arrival. Most out of the way hotels have rooms on a few days notice after the first of September but it is best to make reservations well in advance for the major tourist attractions. For example, in 2006 we called (in July) for reservations (in October) to view The Last Supper painting in Milan and although there were times available, they were sparse. (As I recall only 15 persons are allowed in at a time, humidity and other preservation issues).

The weather in Italy is great right through November and with the exception of possible flooding in Venice after the end of September, most of central and southern Italy (especially Rome) has moderate temps all winter long, although not guaranteed.

Check out the southern Adriatic coast, Puglia, it is definitely a new in place to vacation. Some say it is the new Tuscany? Great food and wine and more affordable than the areas north of Naples. The architectural influence in the south is much different from the central and north...far less Baroque, Renaissance and Romanesque and more of the influence of ancient Greece and N. Africa.

Fish is the food of the south and pasta, of course...as opposed to Tuscany where beef and meats in general are king. Lots of grilled foods in Tuscany and Umbria...with great hams (prosciutto, parma ham) and bacon(pancetta)and sausages.

Stay tuned for more later...

Four and a half months ago I was dreaming up another trip to Italy. In those intervening 17 (plus) weeks, the focus has been one of discovery. We have spent most of our time (in Italy) north of Rome and little time south...that will change next trip...

I am hesitant to get specific, because the location we have chosen is not a regular tourist destination and I fear that if I rave about it too much and get too specific, it will be discovered (like my ego thinks that I am the discoverer???). We have not been to this place but have reports from the "Italians" that it is an excellent choice. Since one or more of the "Italians" will be here in February we will firm up the next phase...an extended trip...perhaps as much as three to six months, to Italy...sort of a test to see if we really want to live there part time. To date the longest we have spent there is slightly under four weeks. Suffice it to say that we are aiming at Calabria, very near, but not quite on the Mediterranean. We have a place to stay for an extended period that is right on the Mediterranean so we will likely spend some time there as well as up in the hills (about ten to fifteen kilometers from the water).

The good news...airfares are dropping, especially winter airfares...today (11/11/2008) I found a RT fare to Rome from Seattle...$748...(Delta)...almost a s cheap as when the Euro was at $1.25 in 2006. And check out the Euro today...$1.25...this winter might just be a great time to head for Europe, before the exchange rate jumps. I will check out some Italy hotels and let everyone know what I find...

June 14th and the sun finally has come out of hiding!

If one ever wonders why I write of travels and not of home, the answer is in the weather here in the Pacific NW. This weekend is not the first we have had sun this year but for the past few weeks it has been unseasonably cold! Snow at 3000 feet in the Cascades, nighttime temps in the l0w 40s and high 30s and generally cold and blustery with rain regularly...that all day drizzle...

So...one dreams constantly of travels to sunny and warm climes. Southern Italy is but one place the weather is better than here...

Next year my spouse and I are married 30 years so 2009, for certain, is an Italy year. We will start planning now so that we can prolong the pleasure (it stretches from the days of planning right through the trip and visit and continues long after the return home...with memories that never go away...

We recall, with vivid detail, our first trip to Italy in 1984...almost as if it was just last year...that's what an Italy experience, a good Italy experience, can do! So, stay tuned, check back, because if you enjoy my musings I promise there will be more weekly for the next year and a half.

Ciao (for now)...

Nobody really seems interested???

It seems that people who enjoy travel or at least get pleasure from reading about travel pay for magazines or read travel articles online. I find that many of these sources are selling something. They write about tours and it seems the prices are in many cases excessive for the average "Joe" or "Jane" to allow regular overseas travel. Some are touted as "budget" and others "exclusive", but the bottom line seems to be that if one has a lot of disposable income, then go right ahead, travel based on offers and information from these sites.

If you are like me, your funds are limited...and...a trip abroad is not something that can be undertaken frivolously ...so...I offer the following advice...

Try travel on your own. Don't be afraid of language barriers and don't pay too much attention to fear mongers and bigots who either try to scare you with cautions about other cultures or or fill you head full of stories of pick pockets and other petty crime. It is more dangerous in many of our big cities than it ever would be traveling in Europe, for example. Over the years we have traveled, on our own, in Mexico (back roads, driving), and in Italy, as well as a few other less exotic places and we have but one (minor) negative experience, mostly of our own doing and only because we failed to understand the cultural norms of the country.

Travel on your own (no tour guide or tour bus, just you, a rental car or train or bus and your adventurous spirit) is much more fun and certainly more fulfilling than any tour one might take. My only caution, self guided tours...this is not for everyone! If you are used to being pampered, don't try travel on your own. If you expect others to figure out the next move, stay away, as well. But, if you want to save money traveling and have the gift of patience and a moderate spirit of adventure, try it...you might just really enjoy the challenge.

Visiting the Italians in Maryland

It has been quite a while (months) since I posted to this blog. We are visiting some relatives in Maryland...a visit we usually make on our way to or returning from, Italy. This time...alas...no Italy in the plan.

Our news for now is a trip planned this fall that will at the very least include a cruise of the west coast of Italy terminating in Palermo (actually Barcelona start and finish) but we plan to get "off the boat" in Palermo and work our way up through Puglia and into Calabria ending up in Rome after a few weeks. Then, if the plan comes together, I will spend an additional two or three weeks exploring Umbria for possible "digs" for our first extended stay in 2010...months instead of only weeks...

Well, everyone is gathering for dinner so I will wrap up for today. Check in in a few days and I will post more about Baltimore and the Maryland trip.

Some Pictures...Burano, Monteriggioni, Orvieto, Pompeii

The Christmas trip is fading fast...

Well, here we are, the first of November and we have not bought any airline tickets and the rates are going up again so I guess we wait...we still could do it...less than $1800 for two tickets, still, with dog sitters and parking, not to mention about $200 a day while we are there (and the Euro rising fast) I think we stand by and see what the mid winter brings us in the way of specials...

Last week our local Italian friends gifted us a really cool espresso machine...Lelit...pure Italian and pretty easy to get a real good cup of expresso from (check out the poor sentence structure...ending in a preposition...my mom would not be happy). But, what it does well also, is to keep us close to our Italian dreams...living a little more Italian every day...pretty soon I will insert a few Italian phrases into this blog to show off my language skills, which, are developing more slowly than this blog...

Are you bored, yet?

Speaking of bored...there is nothing more boring for me than to sit here, knowing that there is an open invitation for us to visit our "Italian Family" in Assisi and stay in their condo in Calabria for a week or so as well...and we cannot bring ourselves to spend the money to get over there, at least not right now...

How irresponsible would it be to not pay your house payment for two months...getting two months behind, just to fulfill/feed this obsession with Italy and all things Italian...

Check back with me in a few weeks and see if I decided to be irresponsible...

Ocotber is tomorrow...wow...time flies...

Just a couple of notes on recent research into air fares...try Hotwire and use the flexible option as to travel dates...recently, I found fares from Seattle to Rome under $700 RT...the cheapest in at least two years...with the Euro rising and the dollar falling fares might even get better as packages are assembled to encourage Americans and Canadians to visit Europe...who knows...but be prepared for a more expensive trip when you get there, although, if you travel close to the ground...Italy is still a bargain. One can find rooms and small pensiones and albergos under 70 Euro ($100) for two in most of the regions, convenient to the places we want to visit. For example, in Tuscany, San Gimignano, a room can be had even in season for $65 Euro in a very nice location inside the walls of the medieval village.

Where have I been?

It's quite some time since I started this blog and over a month since I last posted to the blog...in fact, I see it is almost two months.

The Christmas vacation trip I mentioned seems to be slipping away. My business is lagging and cash is king (as we all know), so I have to focus on business. I will continue to tell my story from our 1984 trip later this month and see if I can catch you up on a few kernals of knowledge my most recent research has yielded.

For now,

Peace...

More Planning

In the last week and one half we have been considering the Christmas holidays in Italy. Or, perhaps from just after Thanksgiving to just before Christmas. The air fares are lower in the winter than during the "high season" (March through October) and the weather from Rome south is pretty mild. In fact, it compares favorably to the winter weather in Southern California! Before we commit to living in Italy we need to try the different regions in the "quattro stagioni". (my Italian is pretty lousy but I think I just said the "four seasons"). I note fares for late November 2007 around $800 RT from the west coast of the US. From NYC or other major east coast cities the fares are less than $650 RT...both quotes to Roma Fiumicino (Leonardo di Vinci) airport.

It seems that the decision must be made at least three to four months in advance of travel or the fares really jump. That doesn't mean that one cannot find a good fare at the last minute, but the more advance the purchase the better the probability of a good fare...again, maybe not the best fare, but a good fare, at the very least. If you are a gambler, start looking for fares 60 days before your planned departure...you might find a super discounted fare resulting from unsold tickets for a particular destination and day of travel. Another tip...if you have accumulated air miles use those air miles to get from your location to a major east coast airport. We have saved more than $300 per ticket per trip doing the latter (traveling from Seattle). Also, if you look at tours, sometimes the combination of airfare, hotel and some meals is a real good deal! And...often one can extend (stay beyond the tour dates) at no extra airfare cost to you...turn a six day trip to Rome into a three week tour of Italy?

Next post...more about our 1984 trip...the one that "hooked" us!

Some first (baby) steps to a great vacation in Italia!

When you start dreaming of that trip to Italy, start the planning...even if you have no idea when you plan to go. Most worthwhile (and a few frivolous) things we do result from the fantasy that we act upon. It seems that the more planning I do for my next trip, the more quickly it becomes a reality and suddenly, the gears mesh and the dream becomes a reality... like the experts have said, your thoughts become your actions (good or bad). So...get busy planning, read books, get on the Internet and learn all you can and make those reservations! This next picture is the result of that sort of thinking...The Bay of Naples from a hotel room balcony in Sorrento!!!



Today my suggestion is... Take the next step once you have made the airline reservation (and paid for it).

Buy a map of Italy and hang it on the wall where you see it everyday, more than once.

Right now, start a list of all the places you want to see in Italy. Use the internet to explore some locations that you might not think about right away. Go to the library and get a few books about Italy, fiction as well as non-fiction...Hemingway wrote a marvelous book "A Farewell to Arms" about his experiences during the First World War as an ambulance driver and later...less well know authors have many great reads about Italy...

These steps will begin the immersion into Italian culture that I believe is so important an ingredient in the excellent experience that is Italy. Italy is truly more than food, art, and antiquities!

How to assure you will get to Italy!

Just a note on the best way (in my opinion) to assure that you get to Italy...buy a ticket right now for some dates in the future...investing at least $800 in a round trip ticket (from the west coast of the US) or at least $500 ( from the East Coast) most often assures that the trip will take shape and will, in fact, happen. It is hard to take that first step because if one has never done the latter it is a big step into the unknown. Just think about it...buy that ticket and start planning a trip that might take you more than 7,000 miles from your comfort zone to a country where they might not speak your language and where the culture most certainly will be, to some degree, different.

Don't think about it...just do it...we all seem to spend too much time trying to act rationally and with forethought and too little time being spontaneous and taking risks!

More Planning...almost as much fun as the trip!

I went online last night and found a fare from Seattle to Rome for slightly less than $800 round trip. Maybe we will visit Italy again this November/December?

We really must visit the south if we are to decide on living part time in Italy in the next few years. We have seen some of the Veneto, Tuscany, Umbria...some of Emelia-Romagna and a bit of Lazio and Liguria. If you are as nuts about Italy (as we are) you already know that these are only a few of the provinces and that we still have a lot to see. (I hate prepositional phrases at the end of sentences but sometimes it is simply easier...and a bit lazy).

Our friends tell us that we need to spend some time in the south so we will definitely see Campania (we have been to Naples and Pompeii and spent a few hours in Sorrento last trip) but we need to see Calabria and I am fascinated by what I read about Puglia and the Trulli. Others have told us that Sicily is a must but I don't think that I would consider, at least not seriously, living there. Sardinia holds an attraction as well but again...it is a large island and I do like access to large cities so being able to get to Rome or Naples or Florence or Milan or even Perugia quickly is part of the requirement for living part time in Italy. I guess that forces us to be near the main rail lines. If we choose Terni we are half way between Rome and Florence and close to Assisi, so far our favorite destination in Italy. (We are Franciscans, at heart, I guess).

But...let me tell you the events that brought us back to Italy after 20 years...

In the late winter of 2003/2004 we were part of the "team" that facilitated Adult Confirmation at our parish in Seattle. Our class of about 20 young adults included a fellow who was marrying a "Seattlite" and they wished to marry in a church in his town in Italy, Assisi. (Confirmation is required of all Catholics who marry in the church). He was accompanied by his fiance (we learned later they had been married in a civil ceremony earlier...not at all pertinent to this story). Our soon to be new friend was a bit timid about his command of the English language but our fascination with Italy compelled us to befriend him and his fiance and during this class a friendship blossomed...and they extended an invitation to their wedding...in Assisi...

I am impulsive and a big risk taker so I immediately made flight reservations and the trip was on...as was the research toward the rest of this Italian adventure we were to undertake. Our first step was to order some material from the Rick Steves web site...we got books and DVDs and started our research enjoying Rick's 4 and 1/2 hours of travels in Italy. Logistics and time necessitated that we restrict our travels...we were planning on being in Italy for about 19 days so following the Rick Steves plan we wrote down every place we wanted to see, with the number of days we hoped to devote to the specific site and found that we needed not 19 days but about five weeks...so...we pared down the itinerary and settled on Rome, Venice, Padua, Vicenzo, Forence, Assisi, and Orvieto. We never felt cheated by time and we saw everything that we had planned on seeing because we had spent the time researching and carefully understanding and planning the trip. Eleven of the nineteen days were devoted to Assisi and Rome and we still enjoyed the remainder in a relaxing fashion. Two nights in Venice and two nights in Vicenza and Florence with one night in Orvieto. And, yes, we did drive in Italy, from Venice to Padua and Vicenza, then to Florence and Assisi and dropping the car in Orvieto (that's another story all together...another post later on).

Train reservatins were made, as I noted in a previous post and attractions were researched and some reservatins made for these as well.

IN my next post I will start to cronicle this trip (2004) in some detail, perhaps a day each day or maybe a day each week...who knows...some days I just do not feel like writing at all...

ciao for now...

Saturday, April 28; more about planning...

I think that in a previous post I had mentioned my wife's Italian relatives...there she is (the redhead) with three of her cousins in Towsen MD. She has some truly wonderful relatives...these three are but a few of the many. We once started talking about a reunion for her side of the family and stopped counting at 33 cousins!

This visit was just before we departed for our visit to Italy in October 2004. We took the train back to NYC on Monday morning, October 4th and caught our Iberia flight at 9:30 that evening. We arrived in Madrid early Tuesday morning the 5th (my wife's birthday) and were in Rome by noon, as I recall.

What a rush! that first day in Italy...in Rome...

The following morning we left for Venice (again by train) and spent the next five hours on a very pleasant journey north through Lazio, Umbria, Tuscany, Emilia Romagna and the Venato to arrive at the train station in Venice mid afternoon?

When one steps off the train and exits the station this is the first picture of Venice. To the left is the corner of the Vaparetto stop (at the right middle edge of the photo) and the experience of Venice must begin with this water taxi ride. For us, we were headed for the Rialto Bridge. Our lodging was the Pensione Guerrato about three (Venice) blocks from Rialto and right around the corner from the fish market (no it was not smelly at all).

I may have already mentioned in a previous post our dinner that night...wish I could remember the name of the place we dined, but suffice it to say...not too bad...not too bad at all! This is us in front of Pensione Guerrato.
(Do you really care about this photo)? We think it important to share the best experiences and this little albergo was one of those Rick Steve's recommendations that as with most of his...proved to be simply excellent!

But...I was starting to talk about planning so next post I will bring my focus back to "The Plan" the history of this experience and how it evolved is pretty cool!

Gotta go for now...stay tuned...

So we take the train to Venice...

The train to Venice can take as little as slightly under five hours. We left Rome in the late morning and arrived Venice mid afternoon. We had been to Venice in 1984 on a tour but this time we were on our own but quite comfortable that we had planned well and with the assistance of the Rick Steve's travel books, we made all of our Venice accommodations online and with ease. We stayed at the Pensione Gueratto, just a few short steps from the Rialto Bridge. We walked out of the train station and just like it said in the book, walked over to the ticket kiosk for the Vaporetto, bought our 24 hour ticket and and took the fast taxi to Rialto. As suggested by Rick's book, we traveled light with carry on sized luggage, one each, and a small backpack each and it is a good thing because getting across the bridges in Venice would be a hassle with large bags or with more than one bag to wrestle. We certainly saw many folks who did not travel light and what a show,watching them drag two or three bags over the bridges in Venice.

Anyway, that first evening was great! We ate at a little restaurant next to a canal that had been recommended by my wife's cousin and had a great dinner then a stroll to St. Marks where we enjoyed the orchestras and to bed, eagerly anticipating the next day, a tour of Venice on our own....just to wander...see this marvelous city and perhaps the Peggy Guggenheim Museum and what ever else we could squeeze in between seven in the morning and midnight. And one cannot get lost in Venice. There are signs everywhere directing lost tourists back to the Rialto or to San Marco or to any number of other well known places in Venice. All you have to know is which landmark your hotel is near!

...so...where was I?

Oh yes...the 2004 trip planning.

We were hoping to travel to Rome and back and spend about three weeks in Italy for $5,000. We decided to use air miles to get to the east coast from Seattle and reserved two round trip tickets from Seattle to New York on American Airlines. Cost us only 40,000 miles because we made these reservations very early...April or May...for an October trip. Coordinating a flight from NYC was pretty easy. We had decided to visit my wife's relatives in Baltimore for a few days on the way. With that challenge out of the way we booked on Iberia for the sum of $1,146 round trip, the two of us! We would arrive in NYC on Thursday, September 30th, spend Friday in the city, take the train mid afternoon, Friday, to Baltimore and spend Friday, Saturday and Sunday night in Towsen, MD.

We would finally leave for Rome Monday evening and arrive early Tuesday after a plane change in Madrid. (My wife's birthday was the day we arrived in Rome, October 5th). I will write about Towsen another day because the visit was certainly a big part of this first trip to Italy in 20 years. Sort of a warm up with my wife's Italian American family, Romans, all.

We arrived back in Manhattan by train late Monday afternoon, transferred to JFK and checked in for our 9:50 PM flight that was to arrive in Madrid about 6 in the morning, as I recall.

Jeannie was not a good flight passenger and had carefully planned that she would enjoy "assisted sleep" the entire Trans-Atlantic flight. In Madrid the next morning we passed through EU immigration and customs and took the merry bus ride around the Madrid airport to our flight bound for "Roma". Oh, I forgot to mention, on the Trans-Atlantic flight, I watched a movie...not being a regular world traveler I watched the entire movie in Spanish not knowing that by simply changing the channel I could have watched it in English...oh well...lesson learned...

We had planned one night in Rome and then a train ride to Venice. The train tickets were booked in advance (both the Amtrak to and from Baltimore and the TrenItalia from Rome to Venice)an easy, no sweat online transaction. In fact, both now issue e-tickets much like the airlines, with a confirmation number that one can print out at the moment of purchase.

Upon arrival in Rome we were a bit challenged by the train ticket kiosks so I think that we were able to buy our transfer (by train) from the Fiumicino Airport to Roma Termini (the main train station in Rome) at a tobacco stand in the airline terminal. I note that last year (2006) the yellow ticket kiosks seemed much more user friendly with many languages available to explain the ticket purchase. Maybe they were like that in 2004 but I simply do not recall.

The hotel we had booked for that first (Tuesday) night in Rome was a mere 300 meters from the train station so upon arrival at Termini we set out on foot and negotiated the three blocks without incident (in fact, our entire trip was without negative incident, much thanks to Rick Steves guide books, DVDs and advice). Our hotel was the Dolimiti, again, booked in advance, online through the Venere.com web site. I have read numerous reviews of hotels online and the Venere sites reviews by persons who have stayed in the hotels listed, seem accurate at least as to the hotels we have booked from that site. I highly reccommend this web site as a supplement to any respected guide book and perhaps the prices might even be better than the guide books promise?

After check-in we asked the hotel to send us to a local neighborhood restaurant and were delighted by the experience. I only wish I could remember the name of the place but I can tell you that it was located on the south side of Via S.Martino della Battaglia about 100 meters east of the Dolomiti, upstairs just a few steps to the main dining room. The place is run by brothers and the clientele is definitely local!

After sa fine dinner we enjoyed the evening strolling around Rome, to Trevi Fouintain, and along the Via del Corso to the Piazza Republica and back to our hotel by midnight. Oh! Did I mention...dinner in Rome is easily taken after nine PM and the city does not seem to quiet down until well after midnight. We have found Rome to be a safe environment in all of the areas we have wandered inside the old city walls. We are by no means Rome experts but I believe that if one stays on the main streets, is alert to what is going on around them and is diligent about not over imbibing in drink, no harm will befall them.

Starting the quest...

I am thinking about my two recent trips to Italy and planning the next one, but in the meantime, where will we live when we retire? At first glance, I thought that perhaps Umbria near or around Foligno. Our friends from Assisi thought that there might be some RE bargains there and in fact, actually found a couple of homes for us to view during our October 2006 trip. Well, not only did we not get to Foligno, but we didn't even get to Assisi for more than a half day and we completely missed our friends family (who were expecting us for dinner on Sunday the 21st or Monday the 22nd for lunch). We really felt like idiots because we could not find the restaurant.
But I digress...I actually was hoping to get started telling you all about our last two trips to Italy...

It all started in early 2004 while we were assisting with an adult confirmation class at out parish in Seattle. One of the participants in the class was a young Italian who was married to a Seattle girl and who wanted to marry in the church in Assisi later that year. Well, we started talking about how we would love to get back to Italy (we had been there in 1984, so it had been 20 years) and the newly weds invited us to their wedding scheduled for October 14 of that year...in Italy! We thought, what the heck...a darned good reason to take a dream vacation...so...the planning began...how to spend three wonderful weeks in Italy for less than $5,000!

...just wanted to add...the pictures in the first post are Assisi and Venice (who could guess) and here are a few more...

2004 Trip to Italy; The Planning

It is too late today to get this thing going but feel free to link and come back later this week to see what has been added...I am going to write only about Italy and things Italian and I am not going to bore anyone with my prejudices or preferences. I hope to tell a story that will stir your interests and entertain with our experiences. Stay tuned...